Diff fluid change

[TEACH JP]

I am changing the fluid in my diffs and I picked up new gaskets today. The guy at NAPA said that I did not need any adhesive type paste when I put the new gasket on. This doesn't seem correct? Yay or Nay for the adhesive?

Thanks

[Big Ron]

you don;t need it with a gasket....but you don't need a gasket either. Just use RTV instead of the gasket. Just make sure the seal surface is clean and oil free. It'll take a while to drain the last few drops...and have a few cans of brake cleaner to really get it clean.

[TEACH JP]

Thanks Ron. The RTV seal is much cheaper then the gaskets so I will be going that way. I appreciate the advice.

[Benz0]

Yes not need for sealant with a gasket...but I haven't used a gasket ever on the Diff's just black RTV

My favorite is this but it's not as cheap as a the tube though
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41MAWGBFRNL._SL500_AA280_.gif

[WildTurkeycj8]

Adam - since the rear AMC20 does not have a drain hole, and you have to remove the cover bolts and cover to change the fluid, now is a good time to add some diff protection....:)

[cmcolfax]

Yes not need for sealant with a gasket...but I haven't used a gasket ever on the Diff's just black RTV

My favorite is this but it's not as cheap as a the tube though
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41MAWGBFRNL._SL500_AA280_.gif

That's what I use too...

[TEACH JP]

Thanks for the recomendations

[TEACH JP]

Adam - since the rear AMC20 does not have a drain hole, and you have to remove the cover bolts and cover to change the fluid, now is a good time to add some diff protection....:)

So this is probably a very stupid question but if the rear amc 20doesnt have a drain/fill plug how do I fill it back up once I have cleaned and re sealed the diff cover? Also how much gear oil do I need to use? I just finished doing the front and it was very simple once the oil started to come out of the fill plug I stopped and put the plug in. My point being if the rear doesnt have an obvious cut off point like over flow out of the hole how much should I put in?

[WildTurkeycj8]

Its got a fill plug, just not a drain plug....same as your front for filling it up! Maybe I'm not remembering the front right...I thought there was a drain plug for it, but maybe neither diff has one....sorry for any confusion!

[TEACH JP]

No problem Mike I'll take a closer look at the rear today.

[TEACH JP]

Alright so I went to change the rear seal recently and the puller I rented from Advanced is not deep enough to fit over the spinde sticking out of the rear AMC 20. It was suggested that I take the 4 bolts off(axle tube and hub assembly) and simply remove the entire assembly from the axle tube. However this would cause me to have to unhook the brake line and bleed them out and refill once I am done. Any and all suggestions are more than welcome I am stuck on this one. I will be out of town starting tmw and will not get the replies untill I get back in a week but please post up what you know. Also if anyone has a spare afternoon and is experienced in pulling shafts and willing to come by and help let me know I would greatly appreciate it.
Once again thank you

Adam

[TEACH JP]

Nothing? Someone on here has got to of worked on an AMC 20 before

[Big Ron]

unbolt the whole thing. Learning to bleed brakes is something everyone should know how to do..so think of it as good practice.
A slide hammer works well if you can get ones that fit.
Another back woods way is to removed the lug nuts and put a chain on it to yank at the lugs. then put the lugs back over the chain and pull away.
You can also do that with the wheel if you leave the lugs loose, but plan on replacing the studs if they get boogered up.
See if advance has a better tool or harbor freight for a slide hammer.
I havn;t done it in many years, but i replaced everything when i did the 1 pc axles. so unbolting it all was easier.

[TEACH JP]

Ron I spent most of last night researching(again) how to do this and I think the only way for me to do it is disassemble the whole thing ang simply bleed the breaks out when finished. From the research I have done it also looks like I will have to go to a machine shop to press off the bearings in order to get the outer seal off? Is this correct? Thanks again for the help.

[Big Ron]

If you are reusing the bearing, yes...it'll have to be pressed off by anyone with a press. If you are doing a new bearing, you can cut off the old bearing carefully (don;t hit the axle) You can press the new one on with the seal by using a large peice of pipe over the axle and tapping them on with the pipe and hammer.

[Big Ron]

Any luck yet? I was rereading some old M20 tech, and it looks like you don;t have to remove the brakes at all, just the 4 bolts for the bearing retainer. I guess the right puller is what it takes.
Have you tried the wheel as a slide hammer yet? Or maybe hook a chain to 2 of the lugs and put the chain through the wheel so you can stand back a bit and give it a few good tugs.
If you can;t get it, I can probably help for a bit next week. Where are you?

[TEACH JP]

Ron

I havn't gotten a chance to do anything else on it I have been really busy with work. I would be incredibly greatful if you do have time to come by and help out. I am in midlothian of of Robious rd. Give me a call if you are still willing to help. Thanks a million.

Adam 840-1927

[TEACH JP]

Ron I am planning on playing around with the rear axle sunday. Trying those methods you suggested. You are more than welcome to come by and help. haha thanks man

Adam

[Big Ron]

Cool, I'll give you a ring after church if I have time to swing by. If you can get the 3 bolts off and the axle shaft/retainer/bearing and seal off, then take it to any shop that has a press on monday and have them press it back on with the new seal..unless I can find a piece of Pipe big enough in my garage.
-Adams

[TEACH JP]

Ron,

You just made my day that much better. Thanks a ton. I will PM you my address if you want to map quest it. Give me a call when you finish church if you are coming or if you are not. Either way. Thanks again.

Adam

[TEACH JP]

Ok so I made progress. The only thing keeping the shafts from coming out are the e-brake cables. Haynes manual has terrible info on where to disconnect the e-brake. I disconnected them from the equalizer but I cannot figure out where on the actual rear brake I need to disconnect. Any suggestions?

[MACK]

Ok so I made progress. The only thing keeping the shafts from coming out are the e-brake cables. Haynes manual has terrible info on where to disconnect the e-brake. I disconnected them from the equalizer but I cannot figure out where on the actual rear brake I need to disconnect. Any suggestions?

Show us some pictures. It should be fairly obvious.

[WildTurkeycj8]

There's probably some trick to getting them off, but when I replaced my axle seals, I remember getting pretty frustrated with them and just kept at it until I got it. I may have disconnected them at the e-brake adjuster, can't remember exactly.

Also, the reason I haven't chimed in here is becuase my axle was a one-piece, and yours is two-piece, so I don't really know what's different about them. I did use a seal puller to get the seal out of the axle housing, and I took the axle up to Allen Tire on Midlothian and Chris took off the old bearing and pressed the new one on for me.

-Mike

[TEACH JP]

Mike,

Ya I got pretty frustrated yesterday and stopped. I will take another look at it soon and see what I can't figure out. The axle shafts are literally just hanging by the e cable now. Thanks.

[TEACH JP]

Just as an update I finally got some free time to work on the jeep today. Got the axlw shafts pulled and down to a machine shop. Hopefully I will have the rear axle back together by the end of the week.

[Big Ron]

Cool, glad you got it off. Going back on is much easier.

[TEACH JP]

Got the shafts back earlier this week and I started on putting everything back together this afternoon. I didn't get anywhere. One axle shaft is longer than the other however the diff seems to be in the center of the axle. And the ring that wraps around the bearing is keeping the shaft from fully setting in the tube. Which side has the longer shaft? I didn't notice this when pulling them out. I am once again dead in the water. Ron would you be able to give me a hand Saturday afternoon by any chance? Thanks for the help.

Adam

[Big Ron]

Sorry man, I have Hanover Sheriff testing all day saturday. Just pull out a tape measure and measure from each side to the center of the pumpkin and you'll figure out which one is longer. If I recall, the driver side is longer. And you'll just have to twist the axle to get the splines lined up in the diff. Should be pretty straight forward.
What is the ring you are talking about? It it the bearing race or the seal? It should just slide back in, but will be tight assuming you used new bearings. As long as it's straight and the splines are in the diff, just give it a few taps with a mallet or dead blow to drive it home.

[TEACH JP]

Not a problem I understand. Good luck with your testing. I am actually looking to go into law enforcment when I get out of college. I'll play with the shafts again tmw or saturday and see what I can do. This jeep is beyond a love and hate relationship.

[Big Ron]

FYI, for law enforcement, keep your tail clean. I am 33, and even going back into my past was unnerving on the polygraph I took yesterday.
There is a big list of things that will DQ you!

[TEACH JP]

The Jeep is finished, put back together and running great! Looking to take it up to crabtree early fall. Thanks to everyone who gave advice on this thread.

Adam